The Style File Daily Cheat Sheet

Akris, Chloé and Gaultier Resort 2011 Collections, Fendi vs. Filenes, Father's Day Retail Wrap-up and McQueen's Farewell Collection.

Akris Resort 2011

"Albert Kriemler looks to Capri and the style of Brigitte Bardot’s character in Jean-Luc Godard’s 1963 film “Le Mépris” for inspiration this season. Working with photo prints, the designer brings scenic images of the island to life in crisp shirtdresses, easy scarfs and quirky pants. For the serious Akris customer, he focuses on sharp tailored suits, cool asymmetric tops and stylish wide-leg trousers — all with a modern minimalism."

Chloé Cruise 2011

"Hannah MacGibbon is playing sports for Chloé pre-spring, adding scuba, judo and motorcycle elements to a slightly retro lineup in her favorite neutrals — cream, beige and khaki. There are little kimono jackets, while zip-waist leather pants with knee patches are worn with a feminine silk blouse. Decorative details include whipstitching and raffia embroidery."

Jean Paul Gaultier Cruise 2011

For pre-spring, the globe-trotting designer takes a fashion tour of North Africa, melding ethnic touches with Parisian chic and his inimitable humor. Looks range from an A-line trenchcoat paired with fluid harem pants to a military jacket and pants revved up with racy corset lacing in back. Gaultier also takes a detour down trompe l’oeil lane, layering three jackets into one or wedding a military shirt to a corset dress.

(wwd)Fendi Wins Settlement in Filene's Case

"Fendi has settled a counterfeiting lawsuit against the former Filene’s Basement operation for $2.5 million, although other related lawsuits against different parties are still in progress. According to Michael Burke, Fendi’s chief executive officer, many of the lawsuits, such as one against Burlington Coat Factory Warehouse, originate from the alleged illegal activities of Ashley Reed Trading Inc. and its owners, Scott and James Ressler. The lawsuits against Ashley Reed and the Resslers were filed both in the U.S. and in Italy, according to Burke. “It is trickier to go after the importer than after the final retailer. The importer has no assets here, as it mostly operates offshore,” Burke said. He added the investigation surrounding the alleged Ashley Reed counterfeiting operation took time to track. “Our impression is that a great majority [of it] was manufactured in China, shipped to Italy and transshipped to the U.S. with fake invoices using fake business cards,” Burke said. In the Burlington case, Fendi was awarded a $4.7 million contempt judgment in February. According to a court document, Burlington and co-defendant Cohoes Fashions Inc. had violated a 1987 injunction that prohibits Burlington from purchasing or selling any Fendi-branded product without prior permission. Fendi is still awaiting a decision on damages on its counterfeiting claims. As for the Filene’s Basement case, which also included as co-defendant Retail Ventures Inc., its parent when the lawsuit was filed in 2006, Fendi expects to receive its $2.5 million by the end of the month, which will be paid from Filene’s bankruptcy estate. In addition, both parties are barred from selling Fendi product without Fendi’s written permission. Filene’s was sold to Syms Corp. following bankruptcy. The sole nameplate left under RVI’s umbrella is DSW Inc. Executives at RVI and Burlington could not be reached for comment by press time Monday. Gerard Dunne, attorney for Ashley Reed and the Resslers in the lawsuit filed in Manhattan federal court, said, “The court found six bags that were counterfeit over thousands sold over the years. The goods are gray-market goods — legitimate goods sold outside of the U.S. and shipped here. Most of our goods are from duty free shops and Fendi outlets in Italy. We don’t believe they were counterfeit.” According to Fendi’s Burke, the amount of money spent annually to monitor counterfeiting activity is in the “seven digits.” “We have people in Brussels, Washington, Beijing at the LVMH level, and Fendi itself has staff in Hong Kong, Rome, New York, Paris and Tokyo providing additional monitoring,” he said. “Add all that up and we’re talking 30 to 40 people, which doesn’t include prosecution, which [comes under] a separate budget.”

(vogue)Noble Farewell: McQueen's Final Collection

"Quintessentially McQueen, his final, magisterial collection was a poignant coda to a career characterized by ceaseless invention, curiosity, and lightning flashes of absolute brilliance. The collection was presented in a stately room of white and gold Louis XV boiserie, in what was once the hôtel particulier of the noble Clermont-Tonnerre family. The models appeared one by one, to the hauntingly beautiful accompaniment of Henry Purcell's Dido and Aeneas (the music that McQueen had been listening to as he created this collection). Their faces were powdered by Peter Philips as wan as van Eyck Madonnas, their heads were bound by Guido Palau like medieval wimples and crowned with bristling Mohican plumes, and they struck attitudes that recalled the iconic images of the Byzantine empress Theodora." read more

(wwd)Retailers Buoyed by Strong Father's Day

"Shoppers turned out for Father’s Day, lifting the spirits of retailers and affording them the opportunity to meet or exceed plan. Tailored clothing and dress shirts, along with knitwear, were among the bestsellers for most stores, stoking further confidence that the upcoming fall season will be healthy. “It was a little better than we anticipated,” said Lou Amendola, chief merchandising officer for Brooks Brothers. “Business was strong during the week leading up to Father’s Day and much stronger than in the past when it has been a Friday to Saturday event.” The bulk of the business came from the stores rather than the Internet, he noted. Among the top performers, he said, were tailored clothing and neckwear, both of which posted “nice increases over the previous year.” Although ties are an expected gift item, the strength of clothing was unusual. “It was a bit of a surprise,” he said. Knitwear was also a standout. Although its semiannual sale kicked off Monday, Brooks Bros. ran some one-day specials in the weeks before Father’s Day to draw traffic. “It wasn’t about the item that was on sale,” he said. “It was more of a way to draw them into the store.” And the strategy worked. “Customers did come out and shop,” Amendola added. “We exceeded plan, and in this day and age, that’s exactly what we want.” As a result, he is optimistic about the future. “It tells me consumers are interested in shopping again. They’re still uncertain, but unlike before, when they were unwilling to shop, now, when it comes to the 11th hour, they’ll get out and shop.” read more