J- Crew

Speaking of $JCG...

In the wake of their Saturday deadline, J.Crew recieved no additional takeover bids during their "go shop" period a provision that is frequently included in leverage buyout deals (the deadline for other potential companies to throw in their hats was on the 15th). Well today, the retailer announced they would be extending the deadline to February 15th for other/rival bids and to settle a shareholder lawsuit. As it stands, TPG Capital and Leonard Green have been the only ones to come to the table so far with a $3 billion offer. There was some talk about $SHLD and $URBN possibly throwing their hats in (it was reported by DealBook both retailers had signed confidential agreements to study J.Crew's books during the solicitation period) but it was unclear whether they were seriously considering counteroffers.

The Style File Daily Cheat Sheet

(wwd)Chinese Textile Industry Warns of Bankruptcies

"China’s textile industry could face serious repercussions if the value of the yuan appreciates 5 percent against the dollar, state media reported Tuesday. China National Textile & Apparel Council vice president Gao Yong told the China Daily that a 5 percent currency appreciation could cause half of the country’s textile companies to go bankrupt. He said the bankruptcies would be spurred by the industry’s thin profit margins of around 3 to 5 percent. The textile industry output in 2009 accounted for just more than 11 percent of China’s gross domestic product, a Ministry of Commerce report said. The Chinese government conducted a yuan stress test in March that indicated textile manufacturers’ profit margins would decline 1 percent if the currency appreciates by 1 percent, according to the newspaper. China’s central bank announced last month it would allow greater flexibility in the value of the yuan against the dollar, amid pressure from the U.S. and other trading partners. The People’s Bank of China did not say how far the currency might fluctuate. Analysts told state media that textile industry profit margins already have been affected by rising raw material and labor costs, together with an appreciating yuan, which rose 21 percent against the dollar from 2005 to 2008. Zhang Bin, an analyst with Sinolink Securities, said textile products have become more expensive, resulting in diminishing price advantages compared with Vietnam, Indonesia and other Southeast Asian countries. China’s textile manufacturers could further be squeezed by rising labor costs, Zhang said. Demands from factory workers for higher wages have become a central focus around the country after a spate of suicides at Foxconn Technology, a hardware producer in the southern city of Shenzhen." read more

(bloomberg)Polo, Hugo Boss, Hermes-Linked Fashion Notes Sold By Vontobel

"Vontobel Holding AG, a Swiss private bank, is marketing structured notes that track the stocks of fashion companies including Hugo Boss AG, Polo Ralph Lauren Corp. and Hermes International SCA. The two-year note is aimed at private banks and asset managers, according to Georg Vonwattenwyl, Vontobel’s Zurich- based head of financial products distribution. The bank will issue as much as 20 million euros ($25 million) of the notes, which start trading July 16 on the SIX Swiss Exchange Ltd. and Germany’s Stuttgart and Frankfurt bourses. Luxury goods companies in Europe are expected to post sales growth of 7 percent on average this year, after slumping 6.6 percent in 2009, according to a Vontobel report. Fashion companies returned about 50 percent last year, according to the Swiss bank, almost double the 27 percent gain in the MSCI Europe Index of 461 stocks. “We have seen some interest in the fashion story this year,” Vonwattenwyl said. “The global development of wealth and the demand for luxury products, particularly in Asia, should benefit these stocks in the future.” Vontobel’s notes will return to investors any gain or loss on the basket of 11 stocks that also includes Bulgari SpA, Burberry Group Plc, Coach Inc., Cie Financiere Richemont SA, Louis Vitton Moet Hennessy SA, Swatch Group AG, Tiffany & Co. and Tod’s SpA. The Swiss bank issued similar notes in 2004 that earned 20.3 percent for buyers that held them for all of their 18-month term." read more

(wwd)J. Crew Names Jenna Lyons President

Jenna Lyons was named Tuesday as president of J. Crew Group Inc. after the resignation of Tracy Gardner, president of retail and direct channels. Lyons will retain her responsibilities as executive creative director. Gardner is leaving the company effective Sept. 13. “This is nothing other than an important personal decision” for Gardner, said Millard “Mickey” Drexler, chairman and chief executive officer, adding that she wants to “spend more time with her children.” Drexler, who worked with Gardner for almost 20 years at J. Crew and their former employer, Gap Inc., described her as “a great merchant, business partner and human being. But we have a really strong team and there are people in place to step up and take on more responsibility.” Drexler said J. Crew will spread Gardner’s duties among executives. Libby Wadle, who had overseen the factory outlets, will become executive vice president of retail and factory. Charlie Phillips, senior vice president of men’s and women’s retail merchandising, now will serve as senior vice president of factory and men’s retail merchandising. Renee Brantjes will continue as vice president of women’s retail merchandising. Merchandise production responsibilities will be under James Scully, chief administrative officer and chief financial officer. Trish Donnelly will continue as executive vice president of the direct channel, and Laura Willensky will remain as senior vice president of the Madewell retail channel. The last person to hold the president’s position at J. Crew was Jeff Pfeifle, a close associate of Drexler, who left the company two years ago. “The team at J. Crew has considerable depth, and I am…confident in our ability to achieve a seamless transition,” Drexler said read more

(myfashionplate)Stella McCartney To Design Olympic Sportswear

"Stella McCartney is one of the UK’s most successful fashion designers and has previously collaborated with the likes of H&M on accessible ranges for those of us who can’t afford designer price tags in our virtual closet organizer. But now the daughter of the former Beatles legend has been appointed as the creative director of Adidas’ 2012 Olympic Team GB ranges. Of course, this is not the first time McCartney has worked with the sports brand, as she designed a performance collection back in 1995. "As a British fashion designer it is an amazing, once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to be creative director of Team GB as the hosting nation of the London 2012 Olympic Games," McCartney said. Plus, it is not just the athletes that will get to wear the fashionable sports gear, as there will also be a fan wear range to match. McCartney launched her own fashion house as a joint venture with Gucci Group in 2001. They may only be sports kits, but it’ll still be interesting to see what she comes up with! We’ll just have to remember to keep our eyes on our own athletes as well." read more

(wsj)French Court Kicks Google/LVMH Case Back To Appeals

The French Supreme Court Tuesday referred a previous ruling against Internet search giant Google Inc. (GOOG) back to the Court of Appeal, effectively canceling an earlier decision in favour of French luxury goods company LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton SA (MC.FR), which complained that searches on Google's website for its Louis Vuitton trademark generated adverts for counterfeiters and fake Louis Vuitton goods. The court, which is known in France as the Cour de Cassation, canceled a June 2006 Court of Appeals decision condemning Google to a EUR300,000 fine, and referred the case back to the appellate bench. The dispute concerns Google's AdWords business. Google, like others in the multi-billion-dollar Internet search industry, derives valuable income from enabling advertisers to tag their ads to particular search words, often famous brands. LVMH has complained that searches on Google's website for its Louis Vuitton trademark generated adverts for counterfeiters and fake Louis Vuitton goods. On March 23, the European Court of Justice ruled that Google could allow advertisers to use trademarks of brands as search keywords, but may be liable for polic

The Style File Daily Cheat Sheet

Kate Spade Resort 2011

"Deborah Lloyd’s resort and holiday collections have Kate Spade’s retro-modern whimsical spirit. Resort looks include navy-and-white-striped jersey jackets and T-shirt dresses along with ruffled blouses and dresses in a shirting fabric with a pop of color in accessories, such as a color-blocked bag or shoes. New this season are denim handbags and Lloyd’s first pair of jeans. Holiday features sparkly, shiny dresses and skirts, made more casual by adding colorful hosiery or chunky scarves."

Vionnet Cruise 2011

"Creative director Rodolfo Paglialunga continues to display his knack for distinctive shapes and cuts this season. Dresses steal the spotlight at Vionnet — from loose jersey numbers to skimpier versions in two-toned sequins and ruched styles featuring rounded hems."

(wwd)Macys.com Names Kantor

"Macy’s Inc.’s Web sites — macys.com and bloomingdales.com — exceeded $1 billion in sales last year, but the corporation wants much more. WWD has learned that Macy’s is developing a strategy to speed growth of its e-commerce businesses and has reassigned a top merchant, Jeff Kantor, to become president of merchandising at macys.com, effective Aug. 1.  Kantor will succeed Helaine Suval, executive vice president of merchandising for macys.com, who is retiring in the spring. In the meantime, she will oversee the development of “an accelerated growth strategy for the e-commerce business,” working closely with Sachse and Kent Anderson, president of macys.com operations, Macy’s said. On the agenda, taking macys.com international. The company will begin to fulfill overseas orders later this year." read more

(Washington Post)Wendy Brandes on why fashion 'torments' women leaders

"Before switching career paths into jewelry design, Wendy Brandes spent 15 years in media and marketing, working at People.com, the Wall Street Journal and investment banking firm Lehman Brothers. In 2004, after designing her own engagement and wedding rings, Brandes became a full-time entrepreneur, drawing on her affinity for strong, powerful women leaders to fuel her own collection. Her website-store offers a mix of whimsical pendants, bold statement rings and eye-catching earrings, some inspired by iconic figures such as Cleopatra and Anne Boleyn, and others taking their story from more obscure sources, such as Marie-Thérèse Charlotte, the eldest daughter of Marie Antoinette. Her latest achievement? Getting a pair of her earrings into the recently released "Sex and the City" sequel. For Brandes, the allure of these luxury items - some cost as much as $15,000 - lies in the backstory of the women who have inspired them. Like so many successful entrepreneurs, Brandes has an eye for detail: Many of her items have a mechanical element, allowing them to open and close, unscrew or twist to reveal some hidden detail, such as a tiny silver chicken tucked inside a gold egg. As she steers her small company and attempts to grow its presence through social media, she draws on her own experiences with good and bad leadership and takes notes from the success and failures of famous women around the world." read the interview with Wendy Brandes and Holly Thomas of the Washington Post.

(wwd)Kabat to Exit Prada

"Randy Kabat, executive vice president, marketing and advertising at Prada USA, is leaving the company, effective July 9. Kabat joined Prada in 1997, immediately taking a leadership role in a business-side trajectory that kept pace with, and reflected, Miuccia Prada’s creativity. Kabat told WWD she considers the past 13 years a privilege, having represented “this company with its incredible brands and visionary leadership...The breath and depth of my role at Prada USA over the years in marketing, advertising and communications has been truly rewarding.” She said that the time “just feels right to make a change. I'm looking forward to leveraging my experience from Prada, and some other great brands before, towards my next professional challenge.” Prior to her arrival at Prada, Kabat worked first at Giorgio Armani, and later, Swatch."

(style.com)In the Mood For Shorts

Style.com has some really cute and affordable alternatives to the light, dark and acid wash jean cutoff's you wore last summer. We love the wrap-front looks and tribal patterned jacquard pair from J.Crew. Here they are at style.com

Same store sales preview: investors brace for a chilly spending environment

Despite temperatures soaring well above 85 degrees across the country, however there's a chill and it's coming from the American consumer. In light of same store sales numbers that will be reported later this morning, analysts are estimating ( by way of Reuters) May comps will be up 2.6 percent a  mere whimper compared to March and April numbers. What gives? A lot of factors. For example, March and April's push to purchase reflected a phenom. I like to call "frugal fatigue" also known (to the economist set) as pent up demand. In addition, Easter came a week earlier compared to the previous year. Also, fears of Euro debt contagion,  BP oil spill environmental disaster, stock market volatility and unemployment numbers are causing the American consumer to spend less and save more.  The result- deparment store comps are expected to be up 0.9 percent and 1.1 percent while teen retailers are expected to take a nose dive by 2.6 percent. In light of uncertaintly, there are retailers I think will weather the storm:

1) Norstrom ( JWN)

Reasons why: Multi- channel increases of 13.9%, Nordstrom Rack highly successful for them opened 6 new stores in the last quarter and  inventory mix is STELLAR (read: perfectly merchandised jeggings, denim and DvF dresses).

2) JCrew (JCG):

Reasons why: Posted strong first quarter results, with net income doubling to more than $44.7 million and comp store sales rising 15 percent. Raised guidance for fiscal year 2010 earnings from $2.35 to $2.45 a diluted share.  Hi-fi partnerships with designers such as Belstaff, Essie nail polish, Hunter wellies, Fallon jewelry and Net-a-porter will give J.Crew fashion street cred and presence in over 170 different countries without overhead cost.

3) TJMaxx (TJX):

Reasons why:  Analysts expect comp store sales to come in at 2.7% and by the looks of store traffic from my numerous visits, assortments and inventory control they are in a good position.  Also, Carol Meyrowitz announced at the annual meeting on Wednesday TJX is rolling out another off-price retail concept set to launch in 3Q 2011. One thing to be wary of is their plan to invest almost all of thier $750 million of capital budget in Marmaxx and TJX Europe. Biut with a rise in first quarter profits of 58.4% to $331 million, euro currency fears may not have much of an effect on this retail behemoth.

4) Blue Nile (NILE):

Reasons why: According to the CEO in an interview on CNBC, net sales increased 18.7% to $74.1 million operating income grew 23.3 % to $3.6 million in the 4th quater.  In addition, international sales grew 71.4% and there is iscounting on top of sinking diamond prices compared to gold:  $NILE’s prices are 20% - 60% lower than retail because they don’t have infrastructure of the store.

The Style File Daily Cheat Sheet

(wwd)YSL Cruise 2011

“Everybody has a reference in mind because Yves Saint Laurent is so iconic. So how are you going to do it"

While in New York showing for the showing of his Yves Saint Laurent resort collection on Thursday at the French Consulate, Stefano Pilati said about the collection“For me, it’s about understanding now that [the iconic looks] are basically cult. So the answer is to take certain elements from the archives and change them.”As for his show, Pilati said the venue makes perfect sense. “Resort started for the American market,” he said. “And so, this is a sort of a mini-show in New York in a space that could breathe a bit of French history by itself. You know, a collaboration.” read/see more

(wwd)"Made in Midtown"

"In a surprising finding, an independent study of the Garment District found the neighborhood is far from dying and has a future as a productive incubator of ideas — with the right support. That was the takeaway from the much-anticipated “Made in Midtown” survey that will be released today by the nonprofit Design Trust for Public Space after six months of in-depth research and man-on-the-street conversations with a battery of sources. But what was even more surprising to the group’s executive director, Deborah Marton — and perhaps more inspirational to the scores of designers who have yet to make names for themselves — is the vibrancy that exists for start-up businesses and emerging designers.

The fact the area is an incubator of ideas — or more of “a research and development hub” as opposed to an industrial production community — was a bit of a surprise, she said. The degree to which companies of various sizes use the district in that way, especially in terms of plucking fresh talent, was another eye-opener. “Made in Midtown” determined that 846 fashion companies are headquartered in the Garment District, which is more than those based in Paris, Milan and London combined." read more

(wwd)Shorts Return to Fashion

"Retailers report they’re experiencing double-digit increases in the shorts category, and it’s not just because the weather has heated up. Shorts have become fashion items, ranging from denim cutoffs to rolled and cuffed twill shorts to belted cargoes and longer, slinky silk shorts for evening.

Bloomingdale’s, for example, is touting shorts as “the summer essential from minis to knee-length” in signage at the entrance of its contemporary department. Across the country, stores ranging from Lord & Taylor, Belk and Saks Fifth Avenue to Scoop, Olive & Bette’s and Chalk Boutique are seeing customers gravitate toward shorts in greater numbers than previous years.  “It’s one of our big pushes. We got them in early and they started off very well,” said Frank Doroff, vice chairman and general merchandise manager for ready-to-wear at Bloomingdale’s. Some of the brands doing well are Sanctuary, Buffalo and Calvin Klein Jeans, especially in twills and rayons. “The rolled cuffed shorts are working really well. They’re the hottest trend,” said Rodbell. In denim, shorts from AG and Rich & Skinny have also been strong sellers, she said. “It’s easy to wear the rolled look, and the whole military thing is anchoring it,” she said. She said L&T is also doing well with the cocktail short, “which is softer and more fluid. It’s not big volume yet, and it’s more dressed up. It’s flirtier,” she said. Some of those vendors include 860, Love 80 and BCBG. read more

On that note, The Cut recommends J. Crew's Déjeuner pair (pictured above). The silk fabric makes these evening-appropriate, while the drawstring gives them a sporty spin that’s suitable for day.-nymag

(TED)Johanna Blakley: Lessons from fashion's free culture

We are always on the lookout for great TED talks, and here is one that is relevant to the business of fashion. Johanna Blakley talks about copyright laws, how much knock off designers can get away with and whether or not we need copyright laws in fashion to protect designers and their designs.

The Style File Daily Cheat Sheet

Long is in Short is Out, Lacoste's Lemaire at Hermes, Expensive Handbags at the Mall, J. Crew's Profits Rise and Gucci Cruise 2011.

(nyt)A Long, Lean Backlash to the Mini

Ruth La Furla of the NYT shows you how wearing the long maxi silhouette this summer can give you a whole new look and presence. "An elongated silhouette also represents a turning away from the frivolity and calculated provocation of a thigh-high skirt “toward a more austere sensibility,” said Holli Rogers, the buying director for Net-A-Porter, which highlights and sells long tanks from Helmut Lang(a side-split jersey maxi, $330), Stella McCartney (a long silk shirtdress, $1,115) and L’Agence (a cross-back jersey maxi, $200) on its Web site. “People are accepting a more muted, covered-up feeling and moving on". “There is definitely a movement to a very lengthy look, especially among the young,” said Nevena Borissova, a partner in Curve, a progressive retailer with stores in New York, Los Angeles and Miami. Ms. Borissova favors radically stretched-out skirts and dresses that “drag on the floor, with raw edges, and worn with combat boots,” she said. And as she pointed out, these myriad calf- or ankle-grazing iterations of the milelong skirt bear no relation to “Big Love” or, for that matter, the Summer of Love."read more

(AP)Gaultier exiting Hermes, Lacoste's Lemaire enters

"Jean-Paul Gaultier is leaving high-end fashion house Hermes' womenswear line, and Lacoste designer Christophe Lemaire is taking over as artistic director, the fashion company said Thursday. Gaultier will oversee the spring-summer 2011 collection to be revealed in 2010, and Lemaire will take over for the fall-winter 2011 collection, the Paris-based firm said in a statement. The move puts an end to "seven fruitful years of creative partnership" and allows Gaultier "to concentrate on his own projects," the statement said. Much tamer and preppy than his own signature line, Gaultier's collections for Hermes consistently garnered critical acclaim. "This has been a marvelous adventure which has allowed me to learn about a new 'savoir faire,'" said Gaultier. He said he'd maintain "a privileged relationship" with Hermes, which has a 45 percent stake in his own company, Jean-Paul Gaultier." read more

(wsj)These Bags Cost a Lot!

"As shoppers begin to feel the recession lifting and tiptoe back into spending, some mall stores are seeing a small window of opportunity to woo them in a new way: big-ticket handbags. Talbots Inc. will line its shelves with a $425 python-embossed shoulder bag come fall. Teenybopper Abercrombie & Fitch Co.'s megastores now stock $300-and-up bags alongside the belts and flip-flops. And Ann Taylor Stores Corp. is offering new carryall totes for as much as $298. These pricey purses—which feel particularly pricey in stores like Ann Taylor, where the average price of an item sold last year was $38—are the latest incarnation of the accessory craze, which retailers seized on last year after clothing sales plummeted. Penny-pinching shoppers who took a pass on apparel instead snapped up jewelry as a quick way to update their wardrobes. Bags, like jewelry, don't require a trip to the fitting room, and are more likely to be an impulsive, and emotionally satisfying, purchase." read more

(wwd)J. Crew Profits Rise

"Driven by greater full-price selling and differ-entiated merchandise, J. Crew Group Inc. posted strong first-quarter results, with net income more than doubling to $44.7 million and comparable-store sales rising 15 percent. With the business continuing to be on a roll, the company raised guidance for fiscal 2010 earnings to $2.35 to $2.45 a diluted share, as compared with previous guidance of $2.20 to $2.30 and fiscal 2009 earnings per share of $1.91.  Also on Thursday, J. Crew opened its first bridal store, at 769 Madison Avenue in Manhattan, and launched madewell.com. And recently, J. Crew launched a partnership with the Net-a-porter fashion Web site, giving J. Crew instant presence in 170 countries as well as some indications where the U.S. retailer might consider international expansion in the future." read more

wwd-Gucci Cruise 2011

(wwd)Gucci Cruise 2011

We love Gucci's Cruise 2011 collection which is print heavy with overdyes, tiger stripes and a Military-Rocker feel.  click to see more pictures